Below is a brief discussion of Bills' core fabrics. Each fabric is graded on a scale of 1-5 for its appropriateness in 4 different settings: business casual, a round of golf, a yacht christening, and lumberjacking.
8.5 oz. Twills
This is, by far, Bills Khakis' best-selling pant, and for good reason. It was their first khaki, it comes in every model, and it is available in a variety of colors. The 8.5 oz. Twill is that "army-weight" khaki, by which we mean cloth that is thick and durable. Compared to the Lightweight Cotton Poplin, the heavier twills do not wrinkle as easily, but do not mistake these for synthetic "wrinkle-free" pants: these are 100% cotton, and if you stuff them in a pint glass, they'll come out wrinkled. For most men, assuming waist size stays somewhat constant (and we recognize that is a big "if"), these pants should last a lifetime.
Lightweight Cotton Poplin
Definitely a summer-weight khaki weighing in at 5.6 oz. The poplin is a very light, soft-to-the-touch pant that is perfect for warmer temperatures. The 100% cotton Poplins arrive professionally pre-washed to stabilize sizing. These will wrinkle more easily than the Twills but they're your best protection from the heat.
The Chamois Cloth, despite its name, should not be used to dry your car. The hand is dramatically softer and more refined than the the original 8.5oz Twill, making them a solid choice for any event that, in the words of Bills Khakis, "requires more polish than grit". The cotton comes in at 6.1 oz weight, making it slightly heavier than the Poplin but lighter than the classic Twill.
Weighing in at a formidable 9.2 oz., the Cramerton Twill was the "twill of record" for the US Army during World War II. Then, along with an entire generation of iconic, war-tested products, it desappeared. Enter Bills Khakis. Authentic cloth, archival design cues, and good old-fashioned American-made quality converge in a pair of khakis that will not only command your attention, they will become your gold standard. It is the heaviest khaki Bills offers (some cords are technically heavier). Make no mistake, this is a Fall- or Winter-weight khaki for those that like their clothes to wear like iron (metaphorically).
All khakis go through a supreme period of greatness, when the fabric has been worn into that ultimate stage of softness and comfort. They are, in a word, perfect. This was Bills' vision when we created the Vintage Twills. Made from a 7.8 ounce cotton has been pre-washed in their exclusive formulas for a vintage look and feel. They'll be your "old favorites" from the first time you put them on.